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Northeast Ridge via Knife Edge

Capitol Peak · 14,130' · Rank #31

Class 4 Standard Route
17
miles RT
5,300
ft gain
Class 4
difficulty
12-16
hours

Trail Map

Trail data coming soon

We're working on adding detailed trail maps and elevation profiles for this route.

Route Details

Distance
17 miles RT
Elevation Gain
5,300'
Difficulty
Class 4
Exposure
Extreme
Typical Time
12-16 hours

Trailhead

Name
Capitol Creek Trailhead
Starting Elevation
9,450'
Coordinates
39.1508°N, 107.0439°W

Parking & Access

Parking
Free Lot 50-100 spots
Fee
Free
If Lot is Full
Trailer parking area 1.9 miles before main trailhead for low-clearance vehicles
Weak

4WD recommended for last mile when wet/rutted. CAMPING PERMIT REQUIRED above cattle gate (~4 mi from TH). Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness.

Route Description

The most dangerous standard 14er route in Colorado. The 5.8-mile approach to Capitol Lake is moderate hiking. Beyond the lake, the route climbs to K2 (13,664') before traversing the infamous Knife Edge - a 150-foot exposed ridge with 2,000-foot drops on both sides. The final summit block requires Class 4 climbing.

Gear & Preparation

Helmet required. Rope and harness recommended for less experienced parties. Most climbers camp at Capitol Lake (permit required). Do not attempt in bad weather - the Knife Edge is unforgiving. This peak has the highest fatality-to-accident ratio in Colorado. Only attempt with proper experience and preparation.

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Safety Notice: Mountain climbing is inherently dangerous. Always check current conditions, prepare properly, and make your own safety decisions. This site is for informational purposes only.